If I run the engine up to temperature one more time would you advise re-torquing with the engine hot or cold? Obviously if hot I will need to leave the cooling system "open" so there is no pressure on the water jacket. Your advice is most appreciated.
The curious thing about the vacuum is that the OLD worn out cam did this with the the engine before rebuild. That old cam was supposed to be a performance item but my father-in-law did not know anything about the grind. I always blamed the previous low vacuum on that cam. Since the low vacuum is still present, I now suspect the carbs and/or manifold. I made sure the manifold surfaces were flat and I am using a new manifold gasket. Previous attempts (prior to rebuild) to find vacuum leaks revealed nothing. What else can cause such low vacuum readings?
Doug L.
--Previous Message--
: With that low vacuum, there is no way to
: tune it properly. Hope it's something
: simple like just a leak...
: Re re-torquing, that was normally done
: on the PDI (pre delivery inspection)
: when the car was sold new from the
: dealership. That step was often
: overlooked, for obvious reasons, and is
: partly to blame for some of the
: legendary head gasket
: "problems" that some of these
: cars had.
: With a composition gasket, I do it
: after the initial shop run period,
: 15-20 minutes, then again after
: ring-seating driving and a half-dozen
: heat cycles or so.
: Yeah on some engines it is a real PITA,
: but this is a VERY important step...
: Glen
: