Posted by Ed
on 7/20/2009, 1:15 am, in reply to "Re: Wich would you choose ?"
63.229.117.107
After assuring yourself with all the afore mentioned advice, and now on my third GT/Spit Triumph I can only add this;
The rear upper shock support frames at the weld locations on the frames are notorious for rust and worse. If you get a chance to look deeply into this area and find the corrosion or cracked paint at these weld points know this; serious/special welding will be required to save this critical support area.
Another is any welds found in the frame [forward] at the front half of the frame/chassis; should be of suspect, and if so, I would ask to have the frame checked for true alignment. I learned with my first '72 GT that common repairs in the late 70's for a damaged front-end was to "chop-it-off" and weld-on another! That front end of mine was always misaligned for the poor welding.
Rear end body damage is always expensive.
Electricals. How proficient are you in trouble-shooting them? Are you willing to? Can you afford to, and subsequently can you replace them? I'm doing that on the side, of all the rest with my 1980 Spitfire, as well.
Do you know how to properly replace univeral joints and how to troubleshoot when they're needed? What's your library source like? Are you willing to rebuild the wheel berings, trunions and brake assemblies? 'Got a wheel hub bearing tool for the rear hubs?
And I haven't even gotten into the engine or tranny.....! How's the carb set up and the water heater plumbed? The hose condition [metal/rubber] speak volumes, you need only a close look. Break fluid colour and smell.
Inspect the radiator VERY closely for exterior discoloration [blue-ing] around the lower half of the fin assembly and bowl as a sign for leaks. What's the water temp. like as it drives? What electricls work? and which don't? Do you care if the horns are original "Hooters" and are metal vs. plastic ones from France?
Which one is ready for the open road and any weather right now?
How do the seat belts operate, and do you feel they are safe for you and you co-pilot?
What maintence records com with it? What the P.O. says ain't what's truly happened. Believe me on this.
Got a subscip. to GT & Spitfire magazine? If not, subscribe and get back issues, and NEVER lose this web-thread to this site! You have some excellent sources right here from all those guys. Trust in them. Me, I'm just learning.
And finally, as you've been advised already, can you afford to pitch your 401k/wife/girlfriend at this time?
If nothin' else, keep the dog! and wrench away at what ever it is that makes you happiest.
--Previous Message--
: Louis you're welcome!
: Another point to consider is the weight
: of the early vs late (misc
: crash-standard stuff, rubber bumpers,
: etc)
: The engines ie 1300, 1300 big-crank,
: & 1500 have been well documented so
: I won't get into that...
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: Glen: Thanks a lot for this checklist !
: Very appreciated.
:
: So far, the '79 is off my list. The car
: as sufferred a bad crash in front and
: although the repairs look pretty good
: from outside, I suspect the frame to be
: damaged. Not good.
:
:
:
: Thank you all for your input ! Keep
: your suggestions comming !
:
: --Previous Message--
:
:
: Assuming you had the opportunity to buy
: 4 different Spitfires for a frame-off
: restoration project. All are in very
: comparable shape (body, engine,
: interior, etc.) and the asking price is
: about the same for each:
:
: One is a '69, the other a MKIV from
: '71, the 3rd one is either '73 or a '74
: (not sure) and the last one is a '79
: 1500.
:
: None have a hard-top available and none
: have overdrive.
:
: Considering the availability for parts,
: value of a restored car, pleasure to
: drive, etc, and again, assuming the
: amount of work and money to spend is
: very similar for all cars: wich one
: would you choose ?
:
: Thanks for sharing your wisdom !
:
:
:
: Louis, Vaudreuil
:
:
:
:
:
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