I have a large number of Shapeways items in various scales for ships and armor and 1/2500 scale starships. The material is quite different.
The White Strong flexible material is the least expensive, but is nylon. It is very hard to work with and will not sand and is hard to cut. It is also grainy and takes a lot of primer (I use a first primer coat of auto primer/filler) with lots of sanding to fill the grains. The detail is soft and the many coats of primer fills the detail. I try to avoid WSF if the model is offered in the frosted materials and is not too expensive.
As for the two frosted materials, frosted extreme detail and frosted ultra detail, Shapeways does cure these before shipping and they do try to clean them, but sometimes the models are under cured and still have wax/oil on them. I have had undercured models turn yellow and they are flexible. Once put in the sun for a few hours (I live in sunny central California so no problem most of the time)they are more clear and rigid; however, these two materials remain fragile. When I am ready to use a part or finish one of the models I clean with Simple Green and soap and water using a soft brush. Even after cleaning some "frost" will come back on the part. I prime the FED/FUD materials with Tamiya grey or white primer. I usually have to sand some of the print marks off the model after priming when they are easier to see. This follows what Model Monkey has listed on his page. Hope this helps.
: --Previous Message--
: If you go back to Shapeways and look up
: Monkey's shop you will find an extensive
: discussion on how to prep the various
: Shapeways materials. Model Monkey (Steve
: Larson) offers many items in his shop for
: various ship models in all scales. Hope this
: will help.
: --Previous Message--
: I recently purchased both the Type 2L tanker
: and its cousin the same hull fitted as an
: aircraft transport. All four models (2 of
: each) are the "Frosted Ultra
: Detailed" finish. I would appreciate
: some advice regarding how to prep this
: finish before painting (I plan to use
: acrylics) and how well these paints hold up
: as I would like to be able to do some
: masking without pulling up the paint.
: In passing, I think the models are nicely
: molded with the exception of the masts which
: are either missing or very much out of scale
: and should be replaced. Can't be too picky
: as they are fairly priced and represent
: models never before available.
: It took the better part of three hours but I
: finally found the section you referenced on
: the Shapeways site. I really appreciate your
: pointing me in the right direction.
: That said, it is quite apparent that these
: printed models are a breed apart from the
: metal castings and resin models that 1250
: collectors have worked with for many years.
: The need for Curing, Cleaning, and Priming
: "FROSTED ULTRA DETAIL" resin
: models in order to produce an attractive
: model may well be a straightforward process
: but it has NOTHING in common with building a
: Len Jordan or Wirral model. I will
: certainly follow the recommendations that
: were posted on the blog and I would urge
: others who, like me, are novices to this new
: material to do likewise.
: It would seem that Shapeways and its galaxy
: of designers would do well to gather up the
: lessons learned so far, edit them and post
: their existence prominently on their web
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